Exped Report 2 - Across the Ice Sheet

Having covered 35km in the first couple of days, the remaining 501km seemed like an endless distance. Just the thought that we would have to step over every cm of the way was exhausting. It was our routine that propelled us onward. Our day was split into 90 minute legs. One person would lead for 90 minutes, the rest of us following in single file. At the end of the leg we'd get together for a 7 minute break before setting off again with the next person leading. And so it would go on for 12, maybe 14 hours. Travelling in single file my view for 35 days was dominated by the back of Jo's pulk. I came to know what kind of day Jo was having just by her gait and slope of her shoulders. Behind me, Jenny could tell if I was having problems with my feet that day or if my chilblains (more about them later!) were bothering me.

The routine didn't change, it cycled on and on without needing us to think about it. We just had to walk.

It sounds monotonous but the first week went past in a blur of new experiences. Around us the view didn't change much - a flat white horizon and empty blue sky – and yet every day brought something different. The sun blazed overhead, skirting the horizon at night so that the skies were transformed into a blaze of colour that stained the snow various shades of pink and purple. The surfaces beneath our feet changed from slush like wet sugar at midday, to hard surfaces in the evening that sparkled like the sand of a white Caribbean beach.

Eventually the weather changed too. Some mornings the world disappeared into a blank whiteness. On whiteout days (and these were proper whiteouts not just bad visibility) I had to concentrate on the tips of my ski's otherwise I'd loose sense of which way was up and which way was down. Despite navigating carefully the person leading could turn 90 degrees and not realise – those behind had to shout out so that they readjusted our heading. Leading needed 100% concentration which was exhausting.

Felicity